Terroir — The Secret Behind the Flavors of Mushroom Pie and Riesling

Whether we’re talking about a winemaker or a mushroom forager, the key to a successful harvest lies in terroir. Terroir is a combination of many factors. As a concept, it refers to the overall influence of soil, climate, microclimate, humidity, wind, light, vegetation, and location on the final product — in this case, wine. Human actions in the vineyard and landscape are also part of terroir.

               
It is essential to understand what kind of soil each plant prefers — whether it’s grapes, mushrooms, or berries. This awareness is vital if you want to ensure a plentiful yield in your basket.

Terroir Guides You to Where Plants Thrive
Winemakers seek the most suitable soil and microclimate for each grape variety — conditions where the grapes, and consequently the wine, best express their character. Wine production is a long process in which terroir plays a role from the very beginning. Finding the right plot of land requires thorough research into the soil’s structure and composition in order to determine which grape varieties are best suited for each area.
     The same principle applies to mushroom picking. For example, funnel chanterelles (Craterellus tubaeformis) are most often found in mossy coniferous forests. Like all mushrooms, they need moisture during the growing season. Funnel chanterelles are among the latest mushrooms to appear, with their peak season and best picking time from September to November.
     Nowadays, the term microterroir is increasingly used to describe the unique conditions of very small vineyard plots — sometimes as little as a few ares to half a hectare — that give grapes distinctive nuances. Grapes from two neighboring plots of the same variety may have noticeably different characteristics due to these micro-variations. Mushroom foragers can make use of this concept too.
For example, the tracks of a forest harvester are often among the most likely micro-areas where funnel chanterelles grow in clusters.

               

The Taste of the Soil in Both Mushroom Pie and White Wine
The flavors of the soil are present both in a mushroom pie and in a white wine. Undurraga T.H. Riesling is produced on Chile’s coastal region, just four kilometers from the Pacific Ocean in the village of Lo Abarca. The area is directly influenced by the ocean and the cold Humboldt Current. In the mornings, cool and moist air drifts inland from the sea; as the day warms, the moisture evaporates and sunlight encourages vine growth. In these cool-climate areas, grapes ripen slowly, resulting in wines that are fresher and more aromatic. Only a small batch of this wine has been produced. Partial oak aging and long lees contact during fermentation give the wine structure and depth — qualities that pair beautifully with the toasted and nuanced flavors of a mushroom pie.

Wine Glass:
Undurraga T.H. Riesling.
Chile, Aconcagua 2022. Alko 500135. Price: 18.98. New product.
Pale greenish-yellow color, aroma of ripe grapefruit, dry (0 g/l), high acidity (8.2 g/l), mineral and herbal.

Funnel Chanterelle Pie (10–12 servings)
Crust:
1 dl instant mashed potato flakes
1.5 dl wheat flour
0.5 dl graham flour
100 g butter or margarine
Just under 1 dl water
Mix the potato flakes with the flours, then rub in the cold butter until crumbly. Add the water quickly, mix, and refrigerate the dough while preparing the filling.

Filling:
1 liter fresh funnel chanterelles
(Note: 10 g dried = 1 dl frozen = 2.5 dl fresh)
3 small onions
Butter
Salt
White pepper
2 eggs
2 dl cream
2 dl grated cheese
Sprigs of thyme
Place the mushrooms in a hot pan and let the moisture evaporate. If using dried mushrooms, soak them first and squeeze out excess water. Add butter and finely chopped onions, and sauté until soft. Season with salt and white pepper.
     Whisk together the eggs, cream, and grated cheese. Press the dough into a springform pan, covering the sides. Spread the mushroom–onion mixture evenly over the crust and pour the egg mixture on top.
     Bake the pie at 200°C (392°F) for about 30 minutes. Garnish with fresh thyme for extra flavor and aroma. Serve with a green salad and a crisp white wine.

Text and photos: Heikki Remes
www.viinimies.com

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